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Went out for a run yesterday to take advantage of the weather with some friends, and the car did really well, no hiccups, knock, etc. Very twisty, lots of elevation change, and the road quality is generally very good. It's always been a good drive since it is only 30 minutes from home, running through the George Washington National Forest in VA, and up over a mountain, stopping at a Lake on the WV side before Brandywine. There is a road nearby that we've used as our local Touge route called 33 heading into Brandywine, WV. Need to clean up the engine movement somehow, new bushings somewhere.Piston closest to the passenger side looks "damp" compared to the others which show no signs of moisture.Plugs didn't look awesome at last change, though that may have been due to high-heat autocross days.9/5/21 - Compression Test - 180 all +/- a couple points.Stock k04 (missing a downpipe stud) - ~40k miles.020 over (Eagle H-beams, Wiseco 88mm pistons, Mahle Clevite Main & Rod Bearings, H11 head studs). Miles on chassis 115k, miles on engine ~30k.Not shooting for big power, immediate goals are all around reliability / driveability.Įdit: Added in some pics, notice the wheel lift, suspension is trash for autocross. The engine is probably a bit over 30k miles now. When I bought it, compression tests showed 180 across the board, and the engine had about 20k miles on it. The combination of the amber lighting and the smoked lens Prosport uses means you cannot see the gauge in daylight.Starting this thread to keep track of what I am doing and to solicit advice and feedback for planned upgrades / unplanned problems.īought in January 2020 from an acquaintance of mine from college, who put in a built bottom end with a stock head. The only thing I have left is to try to hook up the amber lighting to the dimmer so it will follow the dash lights, and decide if I want to connect the white light for daytime use. Trying to do it upsidedown under the dash sucks. After doing it I would recommend cutting some extension wires and soldering them before installing the gauge, then running the complete wires through the ducting. The Prosport gauge has a short pigtail for the power wires so you HAVE to extend them all. I soldered all the wires together so I didn't have to worry about any loose connections. Ran the wires through the rubber grommet in the firewall that has all the wires going through it on the driver's side. This is easy, but the downside of the tee is much bigger than the tubing provided to connect to the sensor.
Best boost gauge for ms6 install#
You have to cut the tube going to the BPV in order to install the tee which allows you to connect to the sensor. After reading issues some people had with this particular guage (in my opinion, because they mounted the sensor where it was subjected to weather) I mounted the sensor behind the battery. As I used an electronic gauge there was a sensor to mount in the engine compartment. Did a lot of research elsewhere, a lot of people have done this but seems like everyone used different wiring connections.īasically I drilled through the side of the defrost vent ducting (had a moment there as the drill chuck was touching the dash) to start, then enlarged the hole using a file. The install wasn't terribly difficult once I figured out exactly where to put everything. Okay, if any of you want info on the pod, PM me as I got it from someone on an alternative 6 forum.